Below are some useful articles for new fencers.

 

Jump to:

• Glossary of Terms
• Understanding the Ref
• Awards
• Equipment Buying Guide
• Becoming a Competitor
• Fitness for Fencing

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Like many other martial arts, fencing includes a large number of specialist terms. Whilst not essential to learning the sport it makes communication with coaches and other competitors far easier if you have an understanding of the terminology. Below is a basic list of the phrases you may encounter. The text is bold is English and the italic text is the French term (which would be used in international competitions). This is an extensive list and phrases of particular importance to a beginner are marked with an *.

Advance : Marche.

a movement forward by step, cross, or balestra.

Aids : Aides.

the last three fingers of the sword hand.

Assault : Assaut, Combat.

friendly combat between two fencers.

*Attack : Attaque.

the initial offensive action made by extending the sword arm and continuously threatening the valid target of the opponent.

Attack au Fer : Attaque au fer

an attack that is prepared by deflecting the opponent's blade, e.g. beat, froissement, pressure.

Balestra : Balestra

a forward hop or jump, typically followed by an attack such as a lunge or fleche.

Bayonet Socket: Connecteur à baïonnette

a type of electrical connector for weapons.

*Beat : Battement

an attempt to knock the opponent's blade out of line, or draw a response by using one's foible or middle against the opponent's blade.

Bind : Liement

an action in which the opponent's blade is forced into the diagonally opposite line using the forte of your blade.

*Black Card : Carton noir

used to indicate the most serious offences in a fencing competition. The offending fencer is usually expelled from the event or tournament and may receive disciplinary action from his/her governing body. Offences include - intentional brutality, throwing the mask, unsportsman-like behaviour.

Bout : Match

an assault at which the score is kept.

Broadsword : Estramaçon

a military sword and fencing weapon popular in the 18th-19th centuries, similar to a heavy sabre; any straight-bladed, double- edged, single- handed cutting sword of the post-medieval period.

Broken Time : Changement de Rythme

a sudden change in the tempo of one fencer's actions, used to fool the opponent into responding at the wrong time.

Button : Mouche; Bouton

the safety tip on the end of practice swords.

*Change of Engagement : Changement d'engagement

engagement of the opponent's blade in the opposite line.

*Compound : Attaque composée ou parade composée

also composed; an attack or riposte incorporating one or more feints.

Conversation : Conversation

the back-and-forth play of the blades in a fencing match, composed of phrases (phrases d'armes) punctuated by gaps of no blade action.

Corps-a-corps : Corps à corps

lit. "body-to-body"; physical contact between the two fencers during a bout, illegal in foil and sabre - yellow card offence.

*Counter-attack : Contre-attaque

an attack made against the right-of-way, or in response to the opponent's attack.

*Counter-disengage : Contre-dégagement

a disengage to deceive the counter-parry (circle-parry).

*Counter-parry : Contre-parade

a parry formed by a circular action, parrying the opponents attack into the opposite line to which he started. Examples: counter-sixte (circle parry in sixte), counter-quarte (circle parry in quarte).

*Counter-riposte : Contre-riposte

an attack that follows a parry of the opponent's riposte.

Counter-time : Contre-temps

an attack that responds to the opponent's counter- attack, typically a riposte following the parry of the counter-attack.

Coulé : Coulé

also graze, glise', or glissade; an attack or feint that slides along the opponent's blade.

Coup lancé : See flick:

a launched hit; an attack that starts before a stop in play but lands after. Valid for normal halts, but not valid at end of time.

Coupé : Coupé

also cut-over; an attack or deception that passes around the opponent's tip.

Croisé : Croisé

also semi-bind; an action in which the opponent's blade is forced into the high or low line on the same side.

Cross : Passe avant, passe arrière

an advance or retreat by crossing one leg over the other; also passe' avant (forward cross), passe' arriere (backwards cross).

Cut : Coup de taille

an attack made with a cutting motion of the blade, landing with the edge or point.

*Deception : Dérobement

avoidance of an attempt to engage the blades; see disengage, coupe'

Derobement : Dérobement

deception of the attack au fer or prise de fer.

*Direct : Coup droit

an attack or riposte that finishes in the same line in which it was formed, with no feints out of that line.

*Disengage : Dégagement

a movement of the blade that deceives the opponent's parry, removes the blades from engagement, or changes the line of engagement.

Displacement : Esquive

moving the target to avoid an attack; dodging/ducking.

Double : Coup double

in epée, two attacks that arrive within 40-50 ms of each other. The point is awarded to both fencers.

Doublé : Doublé

an attack or riposte that describes a complete circle around the opponent's blade, and finishes in the opposite line.

Dry : Fleuret (épée, sabre) mécanique

also steam; fencing without electric scoring aids.

*Engagement : Engagement

when the blades are in contact with each other, e.g. during a parry, attack au fer, prise de fer, or coule'.

*En Garde : En garde

also On Guard; the fencing position; the stance that fencers assume when preparing to fence.

Envelopment : Enveloppement

an engagement that sweeps the opponent's blade through a full circle.

*Epée : Épée

a fencing weapon with triangular cross-section blade and a large bell guard. Hits are scored to any part of the body and there are no rules dictating right of way.

False : Fausse attaque

an action that is intended to fail, but draw a predicted reaction from the opponent; also, the back edge of a sabre blade is known as the 'false edge'.

*Feint : Feinte

attacking into one line with the intention of switching to another line before the attack is completed.

*Fencing Time : Temps d'escrime

also temps d'escrime; the time required to complete a single, simple fencing action.

FIE : FIE (Fédération Internationale d'Escrime)

Federation Internationale d'Escrime, the world governing body of fencing.

Finta in tempo : Finta in tempo

lit. "feint in time"; a feint of counter-attack that draws a counter-time parry, which is deceived.

*Fleche : Flèche

lit. "arrow"; an attack in which the aggressor leaps off his leading foot, attempts to make the hit, and then passes the opponent at a run.

Flick : Coup lancé, "Bingo"

a whip-like action that lands with the point. Often used to hit around a parry or to hit target otherwise unavailable e.g. the back.

Florentine : Combat à la florentine

a fencing style where a secondary weapon or other instrument is used in the off hand.

*Foible : Le faible de la lame

the upper, weak part of the blade.

*Foil : Fleuret

a fencing weapon with rectangular cross-section blade and a small bell guard. Hits are made to the torso and back only and the play is governed by a set of conventions dictating precedence.

*Forte : Le fort de la lame

the lower, strong part of the blade.

French Grip : Poignée droite

a traditional hilt with a slightly curved grip and a large pommel.

Froissement : Froissement

an attack that displaces the opponent's blade by a strong grazing action.

Glide : Coulé

see coule'.

Guard : Coquille

the metal cup or bow that protects the hand from being hit. Also, the defensive position assumed when not attacking.

Hilt : Garde

the handle of a sword, consisting of guard, grip, and pommel.

In Quartata : In quartata

an attack made with a quarter turn to the inside, concealing the front but exposing the back. Used to avoid an attacking action.

In Time : Coup de temps

when a stop-hit arrives at least one fencing time before the original attack it is considered 'in time' and therefore has precedence over the attack.

*Indirect : Attaque indirecte

an attack or riposte that finishes in the opposite line to which it was formed, by means of a disengage or coupe'.

Insistence : Coup droit d'autorité

forcing an attack through the parry.

Interception :

a counter-attack that intercepts and checks an indirect attack or other disengagement.

Invitation : Invite

a line that is intentionally left open to encourage the opponent to attack.

Italian Grip : Poignée italienne

a traditional hilt with finger rings and crossbar.

Jury : Jury

the 4 officials who watch for hits in a dry fencing bout.

Lamé : Plastron électrique

a metallic vest/jacket used to detect valid touches in foil and sabre.

*Line : Ligne

the main direction of an attack (e.g., high/low, inside/outside), often equated to the parry that must be made to deflect the attack; also point in line. The four lines you should be most concerned with learning are: Quarte (high inside), Sixte (high outside), Octave (low inside) and Septime (low outside).

*Lunge : Fente

an attack made by extending the rear leg and landing on the bent front leg.

Mal-parry : Parade insuffisante

also mal-paré; a parry that fails to prevent the attack from landing or doesn't divert the point entirely off the target area..

Manipulators : Manipulateurs

the thumb and index finger of the sword hand. So called as they are the fingers used to manipulate the blade while the last three fingers are 'aides'.

Maraging : Maraging

a special steel used for making blades; said to be stronger and break more cleanly than conventional steels.

Martingale : Martingale

a strap that binds the grip to the wrist/forearm.

Match : Match

the aggregate of bouts between two fencing teams.

Measure : Mesure

the distance between the fencers.

Middle : Milieu de la lame

the middle third of the blade, between foible and forte.

Neuvieme : "Septime haute"

an unconventional parry (#9) sometimes described as blade behind the back, pointing down (a variant of octave), other times similar to elevated sixte. Authorities are split on the validity of the term.

*Octave : Octave

parry #8; blade down and to the outside, wrist supinated.

*Opposition : Opposition

holding the opponent's blade in a non-threatening line; a time- hit; any attack or counter-attack with opposition.

*Parry : Parade

a block of the attack.

Pass : Dépassement

an attack made with a cross; e.g. fleche, "Russian lunge". Also, the act of moving past the opponent.

Passata-sotto : Passata Sotto

a lunge made by dropping one hand to the floor. Illegal in modern sport fencing if the mask is used to conceal target area.

Passé : Coup passé

an attack that passes the target without hitting; also a cross- step (see cross).

*Phrase : Phrases d'armes

a set of related actions and reactions in a fencing conversation.

*Piste : Piste

the linear strip on which a fencing bout is fought; approx. 2m wide and 14m long.

Pistol Grip : Crosse; poignée orthopédique

a modern, orthopaedic grip, shaped vaguely like a small pistol; varieties are known by names such as Belgian, German, Russian, and Visconti.

Plaqué : Coup plaqué

a point attack that lands flat. Aka a flat hit.

Plastron : Plastron

a partial jacket worn for extra protection of the underarm; typically a half- jacket worn under the main jacket on the weapon-arm side of the body.

*Point : Touche

a valid touch. Also used to refer to the tip of the sword.

*Point in Line : Menace

also line; established when the arm is straight and in line with the blade threatening the opponent is his/her high line.

Pommel : Pommeau

a fastener that attaches the grip to the blade and balance the weapon properly.

Preparation : Préparation

Actions preceding an attack e.g. a beat.

Presentation :

offering one's blade for engagement by the opponent.

Press : Presser

an attempt to push the opponent's blade aside or out of line; depending on the opponent's response, the press is followed by a direct or indirect attack.

Prime : Prime

parry #1; blade down and to the inside, wrist pronated.

*Principle of Defence : Principe de défense

the use of forte against foible when parrying.

Priority : Priorité

used synonymously with Right of Way.

Prise de Fer : Prise de fer

also taking the blade; an engagement of the blades that forces the opponent's weapon into a new line. See : bind, croise, envelopment, opposition.

*Quarte : Quarte

parry #4; blade up and to the inside, wrist supinated.

Quinte : Quinte

parry #5; blade up and to the inside, wrist pronated. In sabre, the blade is held above the head to protect from head cuts.

Rapier : Rapière

a long, double-edged thrusting sword popular in the 16th- 17th centuries.

*Red Card : Carton rouge

used to indicate repeated minor rule infractions or a major rule infraction by one of the fencers; results in a point being given to the other fencer. See our 'Understanding the ref' section.

*Redoublement : Redoublement

a new action that follows an attack that missed or was parried; see also Reprise.

*Referee : Président

also director, president; the mediator of the fencing bout.

*Remise : Remise

immediate replacement of an attack that missed or was parried, without withdrawing the arm.

Reprise : Reprise

renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, after a return to en-garde; see also Redoublement.

Retreat : Retraite

step back; opposite of advance.

*Right-of-Way : Raison, Priorité

rules for awarding the point in the event of a double touch in foil or sabre.

*Riposte : Riposte

an attack made immediately after a parry of the opponent's attack.

*Sabre : Sabre

a fencing weapon with a flat blade and knuckle guard, used with cutting or thrusting actions. Hits are made to the upper body, arms and head and are governed by Right of Way.

Salle : Salle d'armes

a fencing hall or club.

*Salute : Salut

with the weapon, a customary acknowledgement of one's opponent and referee at the start and end of the bout. Performed by lifting the guard level with the face, blade up.

Second Intention : Seconde intention

a false action used to draw a response from the opponent, which will open the opportunity for the intended action that follows, typically a counter-riposte.

Seconde : Seconde

parry #2; blade down and to the outside, wrist pronated.

*Septime : Septime

parry #7; blade down and to the inside, wrist supinated.

Simple : Attaque simple

an attack (or riposte) that involves no feints.

Simultaneous : Attaques simultanées

in foil and sabre, two attacks for which the Right of Way is too close to determine.

Single Stick : Canne

a form of fencing with basket-hilted wooden sticks.

*Sixte : Sixte

parry #6; blade up and to the outside, wrist supinated.

Small Sword : Dague

a light duelling sword popular in the 18th century, precursor to the foil.

Stop Hit : Coup d'arrêt

a counter-attack that hits; also a counter-attack whose touch is valid by virtue of its timing.

Stop Cut : Coup d'arrêt

a stop-hit with the edge in sabre, typically to the cuff.

Thrown Point : Coup lancé, "bingo"

a "flick".

Thrust : Coup de pointe, coup d'estoc

an attack made by moving the sword parallel to its length and landing with the point.

Tierce : Tierce

parry #3; blade up and to the outside, wrist pronated.

Time Hit : Coup de temps

also time-thrust; old name for stop hit with opposition.

Trompement : Trompement

deception of the parry.

Two Prong : "Fil de corps fleuret / sabre"

a type of body-wire/connector, used in foil and sabre.

Whip-over : Coup fouetté

in sabre, a touch that results from the foible of the blade whipping over the opponent's guard or blade when parried.

Whites : "Tenue"

fencing clothing.

*Yellow Card : Carton jaune

warning; used to indicate a minor rule infraction by one of the fencers.

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UNDERSTANDING THE REF

Fencing bouts are co-ordinated by a president/referee. Often this will be another fencer, but in larger competitions it will usually be a qualified individual. Referees control the fight - when it starts, stops, who gets the points and who gets penalties. They use hand signals to show the fencers why they are awarding or not awarding the point.

 

PHRASING:

This means describing the set of actions that lead to a halt being called in a fencing bout. For example: fencer A lunges at fencer B who parries the attack, repostes and hits off target. The referee would say:

"Halt! Attack, parried, ripostes non-valid/off target."

If you don't understand the phrasing, or don't know why a hit was award, politely ask the referee to phrase the hit for you. Remember: never argue with the referee.

 

CARDING:

Cards are handed out when one, or both fencers break a rule. There are four types of card:

Yellow Card - A warning, no other penalties. Only used for minor offences. Any subsequent Yellow Card offences earn an immediate Red Card (class 1).

Red Card (class 1) - Point awarded to your opponent. Any Yellow Card offences now earn an immediate Red Card.

Red Card (class 2) - Point awarded to your opponent. Any Yellow Card offences now earn an immediate Red Card. Any subsequent Red Card class 2 offences lead to an immediate Black Card.

Black Card - For very serious offences and the result of two Red Cards (class 2). Usually results in immediate disqualification from the event and follow-up disciplinary action by the fencer's governing body.

 

To view a list of fencing offences and penalties click here.

 

HAND SIGNALS:

The referee uses hand signals to help fencers understand the phrasing. This is particularly important in international competitions when language can be a barrier.

'On Guard'

The referee will make this signal to call you into your on guard position. Remember this is an order from the ref not a suggestion - failure to come on guard is an offence.

 

'Ready'

The referee makes this signal to check both fencers are ready to begin. If you are not ready lift your hand and call 'halt'.

 

'Play/Fence'

The referee bring his hands together signalling you to start fencing.

 

'Halt!'

Immediately stop fencing, failure to obey is an offence. The referee will usually hold up his right hand for this signal unless the halt has been caused by something specifically to do with the left hand fencer e.g. unsafe weapon.

 

'Attack from my left/right'

This signal demonstrates which fencer initially attacks. If the left hand is raised the fencer to the referee's left is considered the attacker if the right hand is raised the right fencer is considered the attacker.

 

'Hits'

Used to show which fencer hits. If the left hand is raised it shows the left fencer has been hit by the right and the opposite if the right is raised.

 

'Point awarded to my left/right'

The referee signals to whom he is awarding the point if the left hand is raised the point goes to the fencer on his left and vice-versa. In Epée if both hands are raised it means both fencers receive a point.

 

'Together'

This signal shows that both attacks started simultaneously.

 

'Off target/non-valid'

This signal indicates that the touch from the fencers has hit non-valid target and so doesn't score a point.

 

'Parried'

This hand signal is used when a fencer successfully parries an attack. If the left hand is up the left hand fencer has performed the parry and vice-versa.

 

'Point in-line'

The referee here indicates that one of the fencers established point in-line against his/her opponent. If the left arm is raised it shows that the fencer to the referee's right took point in-line and vice-versa.

 

'Fails/Miss'

This signal shows that the action of one of the fencers has failed to hit either on or off target. If the left hand is raised it shows that the fencer on the right has missed and vice-versa.

EXAMPLES:

The phrases below can be express as:

 

'Halt! Attack from my left is parried. The riposte misses. The redouble from my left, hits. Point left.'

 

'Halt! The attack from my right misses. Counter attack from my left is parried, ripostes is good. Point right.'

 

The two examples above are about as complicated as phrasing gets. The majority of hits will be scored either with a direct attack or riposte.

It's useful to practise refereeing in club even if you don't intend to referee at a competition, as it will help you to understand the decisions made during your own fights.

If you need any further information don't hesitate to speak to a member of the coaching team or contact us.

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STAR SWORD CLUB AWARD SCHEME

Star Sword Club runs a series of Awards designed to help people advance in the sport. Each award follows a specific syllabus and individual fencers are assessed by a qualified coach before being awarded the qualification. There are three levels to the award scheme:

• Bronze - Basic
• Silver - Intermediate
• Gold - Advanced

The assessment involves testing technical ability, theoretical knowledge and free-fighting competence. To view the syllabus content click on: Bronze / Silver / Gold

The awards are recognised by organisation such as the UK Stunt Register and Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme. If you're interested in taking part in the Star Sword Club award scheme speak to a member of our coaching team or contact us.

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EQUIPMENT BUYING GUIDE

Buying fencing equipment for the first time can be a difficult experience. Gone are the days when a jacket of tough canvas and a driving glove were all you required. In modern fencing safety is taken extremely seriously and the equipment regulations reflect this. There are two key safety levels you should be aware of:

• CEN Level 1 (35oN) - means that the clothing has been tested to withstand at least 350 Newtons of force. This level is required for fencing at club level or in regional and open competitions (except the plastron, which must be CEN level 2).
• CEN Level 2 (800N) - means that the clothing has been tested to withstand at least 800 Newtons of force. This level is required for fencing at international level such as the Olympics or world championships.

It is essential when buying second hand equipment to make certain that it meets these safety standards. As these regulations were only imposed a few years ago, there's still a lot of unsafe equipment advertised on websites such as ebay. All new equipment purchased will meet these standards.

There are two options available to you as a beginner. The first is to buy individual items until over time you have a full set. The second solution is to buy a starter kit. Although starter kits work out cheaper they usually contain the lowest specification equipment - it is always worth upgrading to the exact kit you want. Most suppliers will be happy to help you put together an appropriate package (for example: upgrading the basic foil to a pistol grip and the jacket to 'competition range').

If you are buying without trying equipment on make sure that you have your measurements e.g. chest measurement for jackets, waist measurement for breeches etc… The first things to buy are usually:

Weapon

The foils used in the Star Sword Club beginners' system are ambidextrous French grip models, and as a result are unsuitable for those looking to compete and advance further in the sport. I strongly advise that you invest in a weapon fitted with an aluminium pistol grip like the one pictured here. A few things to consider when ordering your first foil:

• If you're over 14 years old always get a size 5 blade
• Make sure you know what size grip fits your hand. Try out some of your club-mates' weapons to find what's most comfortable.
• Remember you can only use electric foils if you wear breeches. Steam (non-electric weapons are usually a better first investment).

Breeches

Essential if you want to develop your fencing by using electrical scoring equipment. Breeches are also far more comfortable to fence in than sport trousers and provide greater leg protection. If you're purchasing from Leon Paul, their 'club range' breeches are an excellent first buy. Keep in mind if you have muscular thighs you may need to buy a slightly larger waist size to compensate.

 

Jacket

Star Sword Club supplies back zip jackets. However, when you come to buy your own you will want a front zip jacket as they are much easier to put on and more comfortable. Jackets are available in a huge range of styles both stretchy and non stretchy and some even contain high tech wicking linings to make them more comfortable. Leon Paul 'club range' or for greater comfort 'competition range' are both excellent first buys.

 

Glove

Although you can buy non electric gloves it is almost always worth buying an electric glove with a Velcro cuff (see here). The Velcro cuff allows you to connect your bodywire easilyfrom under your sleeve to an electric weapon. These are sized Small, Medium etc… or they are sized in individual UK glove sizes. Again, check what size you are before ordering.

Mask

Masks are made in 4 sizes called Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large. If you know what size you normally borrow from your club then you are fairly safe to order the same size (yellow = small, blue = medium, red = large, black = x-large). For Foil and Epee you would normally buy an insulated mask (one with black or coloured mesh). Leon Paul now offers a 'contour fit system' that makes the mask more comfortable and easy to use, and is well worth the extra few £s.

Plastron

For non-electric fencing a 350N plastron is OK. However; for a small amount more you can usually buy an FIE 800N plastron which will also allow you to fence electric. In the UK it is almost always best to go for an FIE plastron as it is mandatory for electric fencing.

Chest Protectors

Women must wear chest protectors whenever fencing. Although the club does provide them it's far better to have your own for obvious reasons. There are two main types; the individual cups, and the one-piece chest guard. Although it is more expensive, I'm reliably informed the one piece chest guards are far more comfortable and effective.

Electrical Equipment

Those of you looking to become a competitive fencer will need to invest in electrical equipment before entering a competition. This involves buying a lamé jacket (metallic over-jacket), bodywire and electric weapon. We advise that you consult with a member of the coaching team before purchasing electrical equipment.

 

You can find links to some Uk suppliers on our links page. [top]

 

BECOMING A COMPETITOR

Once you have passed the beginners' system and gained some experience you may wish to move into the competitive circuit. Although not compulsory, competing is an essential part of the learning process should you wish to become a high-level fencer. Unlike other martial arts, fencing has no inherent grading system - Instead you're simply as good as you can fight. Therefore, competing is essential in constantly insuring you're making progress in the sport. Other benefits of taking part in competitions include:

• Improves your fencing ability and adaptability
• Tests your skills against a variety of new opponents
• Can gain you a national ranking
• An excellent way of measuring your progress within the sport
• A great work out
• Fun and a superb way to meet other fencers

Once you've decided you want to start competing its useful to start with small regional competitions, such as the Welsh Closed, or Welsh Intermediate Championships. These allow you to experience how a competition operates before taking the plunge with domestic opens. Our events section details all upcoming local competitions and the coaching team will be happy to support and advise you.

 

How a competition works:

Competitions are usually split into two sections; the pool (or pools) and direct eliminations (DE's). In the pools section you will be grouped with a number (usually 5 or 6) other fencers of varying ability. You then fight every fencer in you pool to five points and the results are recorded. From these results the organisers draw up a list of competitors, with those who did best in their pool at the top and those that did worst at the bottom. Then the competition moves into the second stage called direct eliminations. Each fencer on the ranking list now fences their opposite number - For example if there is a list of 64 competitors No. 1 (who did very well in his poule) would fight No. 64 (who did very badly). No. 2 would fight No. 63, No. 3 would fight No. 62, and so on. DE fights are to fifteen points and losing means you're knocked out of the competition. Those who win go though to the next round of DE's and so on until only two fencers remain (having won all their fights) who compete for 1st place.

If there is a number of competitors that do not fit neatly into the format (L128, L64, L32, L16, L8, L4, L2), an 'incomplete round' is held. For example: if there were 52 fencers then an incomplete L64 round of the bottom 40 fencers would fight to decide who made it into the L32, while the top 12 would automatically go through.

 

Wrexham Domestic Open 06

 

Hints and Tips for your first Competition:

• Turn up early to sign-in and get a good breakfast well before the competition starts.
• Always submit your entry to the organisers before the closing date. If you fail to do so contact the organisers for advice.
• Don't forget you BFA membership card - you need it to sign in.
• Get on the electrics and make sure all your weapons and bodywires work before the competition starts.
• Do a warm up before the pools are called, if possible get on the box and do some light free-fighting. Focus on getting you technique and footwork right and don't wear yourself out.
• Don't offer to referee unless you are very confident in your competence.
• NEVER argue with the referee, even if you know he's wrong; it will only get you carded.
• Always shake hands and salute.
• Watch the other pool fights. You'll be fighting everyone in your poule so it's useful to see how your opponent fences before you get on the piste.
• Keep hydrated and eat small amounts throughout the competition even if you don't feel hungry.
• Don't become complacent if you're ahead in a fight. Fight every point to win.
• Don't forget a towel and change of clothes.
• If you can, stay until the end of the competition. It's polite and you can often learn a lot by watching the final fights.

Checklist for a foil competition:

• Minimum of two working weapons
• Minimum of two working bodywires
• Lame Jacket in full working order
• Full 350N kit and 800N plastron
• BFA membership card
• Lots of water/sports drink
• High energy snacking food
• Allan key (for pistol grip weapons)
• Change of clothing & shower kit

 

If you require any further information please don't hesitate to contact us. [top]

 

 

FITNESS FOR FENCING

Stretching:

As well as its benefits to the length of your lunge, flexibility is important to help prevent injury: if muscles/ligaments are too tight then they are more likely to tear/snap and will put more strain/shock on your joints. Fencing is a high impact sport that places a lot of stress on the muscles, ligaments and joints in your legs. By stretching properly you can help increase and maintain flexibility and reduce occurrence of injury.

Make sure that you warm up and stretch properly before you start fencing (this becomes even more important as you get older). If you belong to a gym, ask them to show you some different hamstring stretches. If you don't belong to a gym, then ask your coach to show you some.

Stretch and hold exercises are generally accepted to be less effective than more dynamic flexibility training, such as lunges, squats, leg raises etc.

 

Weight Training:

Fencing is not a sport that requires extremely strong or large muscles. Resistance training does have benefits, but these should not be pursued at the expense of technical training.

If training to improve your fencing, focus predominantly on your lower body. Free weight exercises such as squats, lunges and deadlifts will improve you leg strength and therefore the speed of you footwork and lunging.

Fencing is an anaerobic sport requiring short burst of speed and energy. Weight training should therefore consist of high weight and low reps. Remember if using resistance machines to try and work groups of muscles and not isolate one specific muscle. Rest days are an important part of weight training - failing to allow your muscles to recover properly can lead to injury.

 

General Exercises:

Fencing is an anaerobic sport and any short burst, sprint activity will benefit your training. More prolonged cardio-vascular activity can also have less direct beneficial results.

Running - Short sprint exercises build fast, strong muscles. Longer jogs improve cardio-vascular fitness and stamina.

Swimming - Excellent for improving overall fitness and core body strength. As fencing is a 'one-sided' sport it is important to maintain general body fitness.

Skipping - Excellent training to improve your footwork and overall fitness.

 

Other Sports and Activities:

Although nothing can improve your fencing better than actually fencing, these other activities can have a positive influence on your training and overall health and fitness.

• Aerobics/Boxercise: Great work out, improving CV fitness and toning muscle.
• Martial Arts (Karate/Taekwondo): High impact anaerobic work out - ideal for improving fencing fitness. Can also help improve distance and timing. Practitioners must be careful to keep their fencing and martial arts techniques separate and distinct.
• Football/Rugby/etc: Good CV training.
• Squash/Badminton: Ideal training to improve speed and co-ordination.
• Yoga/Pilates: Great for flexibility training and muscle control.

If you would like more information speak to a member of the coaching team or contact us. [top]